Ceiling trim, otherwise known as crown moulding, not only adds visual interest and value to your home, but it can also transform rooms. Crown moulding can add space and is a simple and easy DIY project anyone can try. Discover how to add it to your home with this easy guide!
Supplies for Installing Crown Moulding:
- 4-foot level
- Tape measure
- Miter saw
- Stud finder
- Coping saw
- Caulk gun
- Finishing nailer
- Wood putty
Tips: Wear appropriate eye and hearing protection when cutting. Prime and paint (or stain and varnish) all sides of the moulding including the back before installing it.
- Plan installation: Start on the wall opposite the door and install a piece that’s square at both ends. This presents the easiest to cut and best side of the joint to anyone entering the room. The moulding on the second wall is coped where it meets the installed moulding and square where it meets the other wall. The third wall is treated the same way, and the fourth wall is coped at both ends.
- Measure room and mark stud locations: Locate studs with stud finder and make light pencil marks high on the wall as a guide for nailing.
- Put moulding against framing square: Measure the distance between the face of the moulding edge and the corner. Cut a small piece of lumber to the correct dimension, and draw layout lines on the wall and ceiling. When you install the moulding, align it with the layout lines.
- Begin at wall opposite the door and cut moulding to that length. Mark the studs’ locations by holding the moulding in place and transferring the marks onto the moulding. To prevent splitting, drill pilot holes the diameter of the finishing nails. Drill holes at each mark at the top and bottom of the moulding and nail in place.
- Lay out the cope joint on a second piece of moulding and start with a piece that’s a few inches longer than the finished length and flex it in place. At the end that you’ll cope, draw a line in the general direction you’ll cut at a roughly 45-degree angle.
- Set up miter saw: Position the moulding so the ceiling edge is flat on the bottom of the miter box and the wall edge is tight against the fence. Set the saw to cut at 45 degrees in the direction of the line you drew in step 5. Finish by cutting a miter close to the end.
- Undercut along profile with coping saw: Look at the face of the moulding—the miter cut exposed the profile of the moulding. Cutting away the excess wood beneath the profile creates an outline that can nest against the adjacent moulding. Tilt the coping saw back at a 45-degree angle to create a thin edge where the two mouldings will meet.
- Check the joint by fitting it against a cutoff. Be prepared for an imperfect fit—you may have to fine-tune the joint until it fits.
- Sand and file any high spots to create a tight fit. When the joint fits, measure the wall. Cut the moulding 1/8” longer than measured and then flex moulding in place. The extra length pushes the cope joint closed.
- When the moulding fits together without any gaps, nail the moulding to the wall and ceiling and putty the nail holes.
- If you’re painting the moulding, squeeze caulk into the inside corners and any gaps between the mouldings and drywall surfaces.
If you think you’re ready to install your own crown moulding, please click here and feel free to check out the rest of the Hipp’s Help store. We offer FREE ship to store for all of Mountain View customers. And we also offer reasonable shipping rates for the rest of our customers throughout the country.
Copyright: wollwerth / 123RF Stock Photo