If you don’t have room for a garden, an easy way to use your green thumb is by having planters along an outside wall. To learn how to make wall planters yourself, check out our step-by-step guide!
Materials and Tools
- 1-inch x 6-inch cedar planks
- 1-inch x 8-inch cedar planks
- Fasteners, suitable for chosen wall
- Exterior stain or paint
- Wood glue
- Cleaning rags
- Miter saw
- Drill and bits
- Masonry bit
- Hammer drill
- Cordless nailer
- Optional: Air compressor/hose
- Optional: Pneumatic nailer
- Tape measure
- Eye and hearing protection
- Work gloves
- Dust mask
While planning your planter’s location and size, consider a few things:
- Larger planters carry more weight, so be sure your fasteners can support it.
- Plants have varying sun requirements, so choose a location with enough of the right kind of light.
- Choose a location with plenty of room for the plants’ mature height, and space your planters far enough apart if installing more than one.
- Be sure the area beneath the planter is cleared of anything the drainage could damage.
Directions for Building Wall Planters
- Cut the boards to your preferred size, but you can also use these measurements:
- Bottom Panel: One 93-inch piece from 1-inch x 6-inch board, with the piece measuring 5 1/2 inches wide and 93 inches long.
- Back and Front Panels: Two 95-inch pieces from 1-inch x 8-inch boards, with the panels measuring 7 1/4 inches wide and 95 inches long.
- End Pieces: Two 7 1/4-inch x 6 3/4-inch pieces.
- To trim the end panels, set the miter saw for a cut of five-degrees. Beginning at a 6 3/4-inch edge, cut the piece crossways to trim the opposing edge to six inches. The 6-inch end is the bottom end of the piece while the 6 3/4-inch end is the top. Repeat with the other end piece.
- Secure a front panel onto one of the end piece’s angled edges using nails and glue. The front panel’s end should be even with the end panel’s outside face. Repeat this process with the angled edge of the other end piece and secure it to the front panel.
- For the end pieces’ straight edges, secure the back panel using nails and glue.
- Position the bottom panel, so that its outside face is even with the planter’s bottom ends, and secure with nails.
- Sand the edges, corners, and other rough places. Stain or paint the planter to finish.
- On the planter’s back panel, mark your fastener locations, and then drill the pilot holes.
- Note: the planter’s back is perpendicular to its bottom, and the front slightly angles from the house. The spacing and number of fasteners varies by the planter’s size—larger planters, to support their weight, need additional fasteners.
- Also, different kinds of exterior walls need different fasteners—brick walls need masonry screws, for example. Choose suitable fasteners for the wall and your fully loaded planter’s weight.
- With help supporting the planter, level it at your desired spot and mark where each pilot hole will go on the wall. The planter’s ultimate location may need adjusting in order to drive fasteners into brick instead of wall studs or mortar.
- If required, drill the pilot holes for the fasteners, installing anchors if need be. Push the fasteners through the planter’s pilot holes and into the wall.
- From here, fill the planter with your preferred plants and soil.
Feel free to check out the Hipp’s Help store for any home improvement needs or supplies for projects. We offer FREE ship to store for all of Mountain View customers. And we also offer reasonable shipping rates for the rest of our customers throughout the country.
Copyright: marwin1983 / 123RF Stock Photo